I became a bit of hobbyist and was surprised how much knowledge I gained about caring for my aquatic friends. Still there was a great deal of maintenance required to keep a large tank clean, the water properly balanced, and the fish healthy and happy.

While many aquatic hobbyists are sticking with the standard, there is new line of small aquariums that make life easy for the novice fish owner. New novelty aquariums are a decorative and fun alternative to larger tanks. Smaller and easy to maintain, novelty aquariums often reflect a certain theme that can cater to novices and fish hobbyists alike. Once found only in specialty shops, mass retailing has brought novelty aquariums in reach of most consumers.

Most novelty tanks are small, averaging between two and five gallons. These unique aquariums come complete with everything you need with the exception of the fish. Small enough to fit on a table top, these fun habitats are perfect for your home or office. The trend stated with hexagonal shaped tanks that were often made of glass. The tanks can now be found in many different shapes with tanks made of plastic.

The novelty fish tank is not a new concept. Some creative hobbyists would often modify items of furniture and even appliances such as old televisions. At first, I found it hard to imagine the frustration of not being able to use my remote control. That was quickly overcome by the lack of commercials so to speak. Turning a fairly simple fish tank into a conversation piece appeals too many of us and is part of what drives the interest in these fun fish tanks.

Just as with any aquarium setup, it is important to consider what mix of fish is right for the habitat. Many species of tropical fish need the extra space available in a larger tank. As for the smaller novelty aquariums, there are many species that are well suited for life in a smaller environment. Small fish such as guppies, mollies and gold fish are good choices for the novice fish enthusiast. If you chose to setup a novelty fish tank, be mindful about the fish you select. Be sure to avoid overstocking, that is putting too many fish into too small a habitat. Just as important is to avoid fish species that are simply too large.

Many of these small aquariums are available at larger retail stores, some of which have modest pet departments. Some big box retail stores do sell fish, though that would not be my first choice. Not to disparage the folks who work at large department stores, but the level of training and knowledge may be lacking. Buying fish from a department store is pretty much of a buyer beware situation.

A local pet shop or aquarium dealer may be a better place to shop for fish. Local shops will be happy to give you solid advice, even if you did not buy an aquarium there. A reputable retailer will want your business for the long haul.

Whether you are six or sixty, novelty aquariums can be a lot of fun. They are great way to bring the beauty of tropical fish into your home without the expense of establishing a larger environment for your new aquatic friends.

What will you do if one day, you just found your fish tank being attacked by one of the most ferocious monsters that you fish tank has ever faced? This creepy (pun intended) green monster, more popularly known as algae can be a real pain to clean, and what’s worse with this monster, is that it literally comes back for more every now and then. If you wish to be able to vanquish this evil monster successfully, then you would need to do some aquarium algae control.

Well, okay, maybe my definition as a green monster was too exaggerated, because this green fellow is usually harmless when they are present in very small quantities. BUT, when they start growing in large quantities, serious problems start to rise. Fortunately, there are several preventive measures that you can do to ultimately limit the quantity of algae on you fish tank.

Set the entire underwater environment in constant motion
Well, yeah, the firs are swimming and the plants are a static as they may be, so what do I mean by setting them in motion? Prevent a condition were any kind of build up would develop, for example, do not overstock, and in this process you have to clean the excess food that your fishes did not manage to eat. Also, do regular partial water changes, to keep the otherwise stagnant water fresh and free from any kind of material build-up. Oh, and keep you fish tank away from any direct contact with sunlight please.

Enhancement items and tools for aquarium algae control
Protein skimmers are one of the best items to use to prevent these algae from building up in your aquarium, as they dissolve all sorts of organics and proteins that usually attract these little green critters to gather around in your fish tank.

Power filters can also help in preventing algae build up, but you would have to replace the filters more often. Organic build up in the wastes found on the filter can actually be a breeding ground for algae, and if you’re not careful, they might come bursting out of the filter before you even know it!

Ultraviolet sterilizers are some of the optional devices that you can use to further reduce the build up of algae in your fish tank. Although they are originally used to kill disease outbreaks in an aquarium, they can also be effectively used to halt the growth of algae for a period of time. Be wary though, don’t let the sterilizer on for a very long period of time, as it can cause harm to other aquatic life when used excessively.

At least be prepared if a battle does ensue
If they do build up, be prepared for lengthy session of aquarium scrubbing. There are available algae pads out there that you can use to scrub these green monsters off your aquarium. If you are using an acrylic tank, be sure to use the softer pads to prevent scratches to develop.

Not really a well cooked up aquarium algae control plan as it would seem, but this should help you get a head start on the green enemy that you are going to have to deal with from time to time. Remember, never give up the fight, always plan ahead, and never let this monster have an opportunity to manifest itself as much as possible.

Substrates Fit for Aquatic Plant life
Yes, that’s right, just like ordinary plants, aquatic plants also need a good base for it to rest upon and grow. One common mistake that beginners do is to stick these plants into any substrate without considering the actual value of that substrate to the plant. These aquatic plants need a good substrate for them to start growing, and they particularly need an iron rich base.

Iron enriched substrates should be available at your local specialty store, but if you still want to be able to save money somehow, you can buy half of the substrate and use it as a layer in your aquarium. You can then fill the subsequent levels of the substrate by any other substrate material, for as long as the roots of the plant stays in firm contact with the iron enriched soil.

Proper Lighting for further Plant Growth
What do teachers in grade school teach you about the importance of sunlight to plants? That right, sunlight is crucial for the plants because they need it for the natural process called photosynthesis. This works the same way for plants, only of course they are in a limited artificial environment, so you would need to provide a proper source of lighting for them.

Choosing the proper amount of lighting is important, but it is also important to know that plants have their own biological clock, and synchronizing with this biological clock is necessary for them to grow naturally. Simulate the effects of actual night and day, turning on the lighting for about 12 hours and then turning them off for 12 hours before turning them on again.

Make sure that the nutrients are adequately provided
Nutrients as well, are needed by the plants to grow. Generally, an aquatic plant won’t need additionally nutrients for the first 4 weeks, can vary depending on the environmental conditions and depending on the plant itself. One common way to infuse nutrients into the tank for plant consumption is to use fertilizers, but don’t use too much though, as it can be very lethal to both the plants and the fishes in the water. Also, plants usually require more nutrients when they are exposed to more intense lighting, so you might have to balance the amount of lighting before determining the amount that you want to administer to the plant.

Starting your own freshwater planted aquarium is not that really hard nor is it any troublesome. It just depends upon your passion and interest as an aquarist to expand your knowledge and skills in creating and keeping an artificial underwater environment.

Every perfect representation of an aquatic ecosystem requires a good and convincing replication of the actual environment, plants, fishes and everything. Now, replication of the actual environment to the minute detail is impossible, but you can supplement each and every available basic element of underwater life to represent it quite nicely and in a neat fashion too. Freshwater planted aquariums add that beauty and splendor that you can find in a natural underwater habitat, you can successfully make one by taking note of several key things that you have to consider.

Raising Aquatic plants is hard you say? Well not really.
Many aquarists consider having plants in an aquarium as either an extra load of effort that they just don’t have time to do, or a professional activity far from taking care of fish, that they have to do several complicated techniques in order for the plants to grow properly. Well, part of this is true, but only if you look at the tiring side of raising aquatic plants, if you try to look at the brighter side by keeping in mind the common mistakes (such as taking care of plants with different kinds of environmental requirements, etc.) in raising aquatic plants and avoiding them, then you’ll find that it’s not really that difficult.

Knowing and understanding the essential elements is the key
Just like our common land plants, aquatic plants also need certain elements for them to live and survive in the artificial environment that you had set up in your aquarium, and successfully establishing a freshwater planted aquarium would definitely require proper application of these elements.

The first on our list is the general property of the water, or more particularly, the levels of the water’s pH, the standard water temperature, and the water’s hardness. When we refer to the water’s pH, we refer to the alkalinity or acidity of the water, and knowing where your aquatic plant’s pH tolerance is definitely crucial for the plant’s survival. Water hardness is secondary, because most tropical plants are able to survive in relatively harder water (not too much though) than in their original habitat. Tropical plants are not used to the cold weather of the colder countries of the world, so you’ll have to use a heater to control the water temperature to the desired level.

Next is the lighting. As part of the normal process of plants that is called photosynthesis, they would also need an ample amount of lighting to be able to grow naturally. A wide array of different kinds of artificial lighting for different plants are available at your local specialty store, so do your research and find out about the right lighting levels of a certain plant that you intend to buy.

Finally, other more generic elements, but of equal importance, such as firm substrates, fertilizers, placement in the water (either for aesthetic or functional), and fish interaction, are also crucial for good plant growth in your aquarium. Use substrates that can hold the plant firmly, fertilizers are good but proper application should be considered before using one, placing the plants at strategic places in the water not only ensures that they stay the way they are, but are also lovely attractions for your aquarium, and don’t forget that there are herbivorous fish, and never place these fishes in your freshwater planted aquarium

Freshwater fish are native to warm and tropical waters, and this affinity to warm climate allows freshwater fishes to thrive in waters that has an average temperature of 74°F to 80°F. Unfortunately though, most enthusiasts of freshwater fish live in the colder regions of the world, which is why proper regulation of your freshwater aquarium temperature that can simulate the living conditions of these fishes is necessary, so that they can do all of the natural tasks that they need to do just like when they are living in their natural habitat. To do this, you would need the help of an aquarium heater.

Hang-on Heater

This type of heater usually comes inexpensively to some specialty shops out there, so they’re perfect for hobbyists who are in need of a heater on a budget. Hang-on heaters are hung over the back side of the aquarium, and are submerged, hence the name.

These heaters have a mechanical temperature adjuster, which you can easily set to achieve the desired aquarium temperature. To keep the temperature at a constant value, you would need to keep the water control above the water line. In case you don’t know where the water line is, don’t worry, as most hang-on heaters will indicate the water line depending on its position in the aquarium.

One bad thing about the hang-on heater is that they can somehow be eyesore to the aquarium, in a sense that it can quite gaudy when placed beside the underwater decorations. However if you’re still on the training part, or is on a budget and would not mind a few cracks on the aesthetic part of the aquarium, then this would be perfect for you.

 
Submersible Heater

As the name suggests, the submersible heater can be fully submerged into your aquarium due to the fact that the tube is completely sealed. They have a slim design which makes them easy to conceal in your aquarium compared with immersible heaters. Submersibles are a little more expensive than immersibles and range from $15 to $50 in price. The temperature gauge is usually mechanical and is easy to set at a desired temperature. These heaters are reliable and do an excellent job of maintaining a consistent temperature. If you are a hobbyist who prefers a very natural look in your tank, this is a popular, fairly inexpensive and effective heating option.

Filter Heater

These heaters are placed into your external filter and heat water as it flows through the filter. The benefit of this is that water is heated more evenly throughout your tank whereas this is not always possible with immersible and submersible heaters. Another advantage of the heater being located inside the filter is that your entire heating system is external making it a very attractive option for hobbyists trying to achieve a completely natural look in their aquarium. The temperature dial is usually mechanical and is very easy to set making it simple to maintain a consistent temperature. Filter heaters are generally more expensive than their counterparts and range anywhere from $30 – $60. If you have the budget, these heaters are a great option in terms of overall aquarium aesthetics and temperature control.
 
Once you have decided on the type of heater you want for your aquarium, the next step is to determine the correct size for your tank. The size of an aquarium heater is determined by total wattage. The higher the wattage of a heater, the bigger it is. Obviously a bigger tank required a bigger heater. The other factor to consider when determining heater size is the temperature of the room the aquarium is in. The greater the variance in average room temperature versus your desired tank temperature, the greater the heater size needs to be. Assuming that most households are typically 68 degrees Fahrenheit and most freshwater tanks are kept around 75 – 77 degrees, use the chart below to determine what size heater is right for your aquarium.
 
5 – 8 gallon tank – 25 watt heater
10 – 20 gallon tank – 50 watt heater
22 – 30 gallon tank – 75 watt heater
32 – 40 gallon tank – 100 watt heater
45 – 60 gallon tank – 150 watt heater
62 – 70 gallon tank – 150 watt heater
70+ gallon tank – 250 watt heater (additional heater units may be needed)
           

 If your average room temperature is lower than 68 degrees Fahrenheit, consider moving up in heater size. If it is higher than 68, consider moving down in heater size.

Once your heater is installed, be sure to have a thermometer located on or in the tank so you can monitor the temperature and adjust the heater accordingly.

There are many different companies that manufacture aquarium heaters and most of the products are more than suitable for the home aquarium.

The hobby of owning an aquarium and being able to raise fish in your own home gives that serene and calming ambience in your home, especially when you are gazing at the fish that swim about after a busy day’s work. Starting this great hobby isn’t that difficult, but before you even start buying freshwater fish, you must first consider purchasing a suitable freshwater aquarium tank, which you’ll use as the new home of these fish.

Determining the Desired Fish Tank Size and Shape

Oftentimes, a tank’s surface area is the most observed factor, in detriment of its actual volume. This is because of the emphasis on the number of fish that will dwell on your fish tank, as there are some fish that would cluster around a certain level of the tank, which makes the volume a critical factor that should determine the actual space available for your fish.

In a broad sense, having a larger tank doesn’t mean that you’ll have a harder time maintaining it (although carrying it is an entirely different problem).  In fact, changes in maintenance procedures are relatively little and pose no significant increase in complexity or work amount;  for example, when conducting partial water changes in a tank.

Having a larger tank also translates into having more stability when it comes to the composition and substance chemistry of the water in the tank. Maintaining a medium sized tank for a beginner might be a little difficult, because slight changes in the water chemistry might prove fatal for the fish, unlike in a larger tank, where the effects are “diluted” within the larger amount of water present.

Lastly, the beginner might opt to have more fish as an exciting  start to his o her brand new hobby, and if you want to accommodate more fish, you’ve got to have a larger tank.

Determining the Fish Tank Material to Use

Fish tanks are commonly crafted using one of the following two materials: glass and acrylic. Both can be either attractive or repulsive to an aquarium hobbyist, depending on the preferred options for the fish tank that the hobbyist wants.

Glass tanks are the classical tanks used for aquariums. It’s a relatively durable material, doesn’t scratch easily, and is stable enough. It is quite heavy, though, and needs careful handling when transporting if from place to place, because it can be shattered to pieces if you’re not careful.

Acrylic tanks are the modern type of fish tanks. They are made with synthetic materials that replicate the transparent properties of glass, while upgrading some of glass’ weaknesses like brittleness. These tanks are generally lighter than glass tanks by about half of the amount of the exact same size, although the price itself is around two to three times more expensive.

But all in all, you’re most likely to experience a mix of these different kinds of fish tanks throughout your career as an aquarium hobbyist. Given the opportunity, try out the different kinds of freshwater aquarium tanks for yourself, and see what you truly want for your home. Prudence is the key; don’t ever get tired of testing various things when they are readily presented for you to take hold!

Aquariums need to be kept well and clean, but doing a manual cleaning  job can be a little bit tedious, especially for an average person of the busy modern age. For these kinds of jobs, you can always ask the assistance of the ever trusty freshwater aquarium filters.

Types of Aquarium Filters by Filtering Process

When someone thinks of the word “filter”, the first thing that pops into mind is some sort of apparatus in which the finer particles pass through smoothly, while the larger particles stay. For freshwater aquarium filters, the concept is more or less the same, although in general there are three different ways of filtering unwanted particles in your aquarium.

Biological filtration involves cleaning of the water using natural processes. One of the most commonly known methods involved in this filtering process is the use of beneficial bacteria. These bacteria have the direct capability to transform otherwise toxic substances into a more tolerable, less toxic compound. Ammonia and nitrites are some of the substances that these beneficial bacteria can work on, transforming them into a less toxic compound like nitrate.

Chemical filtration makes use of synthetic materials that react with certain waste materials to be easily collected manually. This method of filtration is often best used in conjunction with other filtration methods, as the dissolved toxic waste cannot actually be separated from the water without mechanical intervention. Activated carbon is one of the most popularly used materials for chemical filtration.

Mechanical filtration makes use of materials that are similar to the traditional means of filtration, by manually letting the particles into the filter, trapping the waste particles. This method of filtration does not filter anything but actual solid particles. The filters used to collect waste material must be replaced periodically, because it can only hold a certain amount of waste material.

Types of Aquarium Filters by Physical Function

There are quite a number of freshwater aquarium filters for hobbyists out there, and some of these filters involve at least one or two kinds of filtration for your aquariums. Here are a few filters commonly used in aquariums:

Canister filters are about the most powerful filters available. The filter’s main action is to force the water through the filter media, rather than just letting water flow through it, and that is precisely what makes it so effective. Additionally, canister filters can be used as bacteria settling devices, by placing the dry wheels at the outflow of the filter. The only downside about these kinds of filters is the maintenance required to clean or replace the filters and the effort required to get them working again after cleaning.

  Power filters are unarguably the most commonly used filters, as they have several advantages  in terms of cost, availability and efficiency. They are relatively easy to install at the back of the tank, and are quite easy to maintain. Mechanical and chemical filtrations are achieved by the cleaning action of the floss and insert cartridges, and if you add a biowheel to it, it can even do biological filtration.

Fluidized bed filters use a new concept that greatly emphasizes the cleaning work of biological filtration. These filters are literally tubes with sand in them as the main filter media. Bacteria colonies are then allowed to settle in the sand “beds”, and the water is then filtered by pumping them upwards. Additional tubes can be installed for pre-filtering purposes, as well as for chemical filtration.

Fishes don’t actually live in waters that are too static, inert or free of anything but just pure water itself; they live in environments that having changing levels of acidity and alkalinity, often known as the pH levels of water. Now, don’t get confused: although it is termed as acidic, it’s not your stereotypical green oozing liquid that melts anything that it touches. Acidic in chemistry terms is just the rate of how high is the concentration of hydrogen ions (H+) in a solution after being dissolved in water, which is basically the exact opposite of alkalinity which is determined by the number of hydroxide atoms (OH-).

pH levels in a Fish Tank

Water pH is the general measurement unit for testing the acidity or alkalinity of water. For acidity, anything that is less than 7.0pH is considered as acidic, while anything greater than 7.0pH would be considered alkaline. It is important to know the exact measurements of your fish tank water’s pH and to research about your fish’ pH level tolerance. Neglect of these important variables can potentially cause your fish’s early death.

Measuring pH levels

There are a number of available pH level test kits out there in the market, although it’s still up to the hobbyist on how to use the testing kit properly. Some hobbyists have the tendency to use the pH test kits on tap water right away, without considering the fact that the pH levels of that tap water can change considerably upon use as water in your fish tank. So, you have to test first the water by putting some rocks and gravel into it, and leaving it for about 24-48 hours (leaving the water for a week before testing  works best, although it is indeed a bit time consuming). Then, test the pH levels afterwards, and see if there is any significant change in the water.

Consistency is the Key

For fish, it is vital that you keep the pH levels at a constant rate. They are most likely to get stressed by changing pH levels (for example, a water pH level that constantly shifts from 6.6 to 7.0) even if it’s suitable for the fish’s pH tolerance levels. This doesn’t mean that you should get it at and exact constant rate, though… that would be very difficult. Just keep it at a very low pH swing rate, something at around 0.2 unit change in pH levels should already be tolerable enough for your fish.

Changing the Water pH levels

Usually, the dissolved minerals in the rocks and gravel that you use in your substrate would already provide the right pH that you need for your aquarium, but there are other several methods to manually manipulate your freshwater aquarium pH levels. Water has a property that is called the buffering capacity, which is the ability to resist any change in pH levels. You should take note of this very well, because even if you put additives in the water to change its pH levels, you might end up as if you did not put the additive at all, because of the high buffering capacity of the water that you are using.

The most common method to increase the water pH levels is to add crushed coral to your substrate. The coral’s composition reacts to the water, and subsequently raises the water’s pH level and maintains it at a certain rate. Remember that pH levels constantly drop over time, so changing the water periodically is necessary to maintain the pH levels at a constant rate. Alternatively, there are available buffers in the market that can raise the pH levels of your fish tank, but beware of using them in large amounts unintentionally.

If you want to lower your freshwater aquarium pH levels however, then there are also several steps and measures to do so. One is to increase the carbon dioxide levels of the water. Don’t add too much, just enough for the pH levels to tip off and go over the lower pH zone. Synthetic Chemicals that lower pH levels are also available, but like always, you should be wary of the amount that you are administering in your fish tank.

Setting up your aquarium is a very nice and exciting task, especially if you’re just beginning to explore the micro-world of fish in a controlled aquatic habitat. It would be very good and advantageous to know several key ideas and some basic rules for your freshwater aquarium setup.

Your Substrate

The extreme bottom of a fish tank is what we call the substrate. There are three types of substrates categorized by size: namely, small substrates, medium substrates and large substrates.
 

Small Size Substrate

Fish naturally prefer small substrates over other substrates, because it is easier find a good nest within these kinds of substrates. The most common material used for these substrates are tiny rocks mixed with sand.

Medium Size Substrate

The medium substrate can be beneficial in a lot of different ways, but there is actually no general advantage or disadvantage. Several materials used for medium substrates include rocks of average size and pebbles.

Large substrates

Large substrates are commonly used in tandem with other substrates (because they can’t be used technically by themselves), and are often added to present an artistic look of the aquarium’s substrate. River rocks and other similar materials are commonly used for large substrates.

Substrate and Your Fish

Substrates sometimes have a direct effect on the water in your tank, and of course, if it affects the water then it indirectly affects the fish as well. For example, crushed corals can technically raise the pH levels of the water (and when there is a rise in pH levels, we now refer to any substance as acidic). Aside from indirect or direct contamination of the water, other substrate materials may also have some other effects on the water, so you must do your research using any material for an aquarium substrate.

Substrate to Avoid

As a side note, never use materials such as:

• Limestone
• Geodes
• Shells
• Dolomite
• Granite
• Slate
• Quartz
• Lava rock
• Sandstone
• Onyx

Application of any of these materials as a substrate is an absolute taboo, and if you don’t want your fish to die DO NOT apply them as substrates.

Test, Test and Test

If you are unsure of whether a certain material for a substrate would be harmful to your fish or not, you may conduct several self-tests at your own home. Place a few drops of vinegar to a rock or stone sample that you intend to use as a substrate. If it foams or fizzes after a short while, then it’s not safe to use. Another alternative is to soak the rock samples in a bucket of water, measuring the pH levels of the water before leaving it for about a week. If you see no significant change in the water pH levels after a week, then it’s most likely safe to use in your aquarium.

The other problems that you have to consider when reducing the risk posed by different materials to be used in your aquarium are the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels of the water when these materials are used.

Ammonia is generally beneficial only during the startup cycle, so you have to watch out for the ammonia levels of a mature tank often. Nitrites are toxic byproducts of organic waste breakdown in the water, and the levels of this in the water should be less than 1.0 by unit measurement. Nitrates are mildly poisonous, not really that harmful, but can really hurt you fish if it goes over 300ppm.

Testing kits are available at local specialty shops for you to test the various levels of toxicity of the water in your aquarium. Remember, though, it is important to detect these toxic substances early, so you have to practice these detection countermeasures frequently, as part of your regular freshwater aquarium setup procedure.

Power Strip

We suggest you purchase a waterproof power strip for youe aquaeium setup to protect against surges, as we are working with water as well as electricity.

Plants are as natural an addition to an aquarium as the fish themselves, presenting that unerring balance that a regular underwater ecosystem should have. Freshwater aquarium plants have their different characteristics and applications, and it is important for you to know these when adding these plants in your aquarium.

Bulbs are commonly quite large in size compared to other plants. In fact, most types of bulbs are far too big for a regular-sized aquarium! Common examples of these plants are the water lily and the aponogeton. These plants are actually much better suited for the wild outdoors than the domestic fish tank, especially when they thrive on specific environments such as koi fish ponds.

Floating plants are a good choice for your aquarium, as they can be a good place for young fry (baby fish) to survive during their most vulnerable age. A good example of a floating plant that you can use is the Fairy Moss an driccia.

Rhizomes are characterized by their thick, horizontal stems, with the leaves sprouting on the top. This type of plant is frequently used as “runners” over substrates, growing new leaves and roots as it spreads along the way.

Common examples of rhizomes are the anubias and the African Fern. They’re quite easy to plant, because all you need to do is to tie them to the driftwood in your aquarium.

Rosettes are plants that look like crowns with roots growing underneath. These plants cover the water by propagating themselves through, multiplying as they “run” over. Rosettes can also bloom beautiful flowers, and common examples of this plant are the Amazon Sword and the Sagittaria.

Stems, though may sound like the part of a plant also named “stem”, are actually also one of the many kinds of freshwater aquarium plants. It is commonly characterized by a single stem firmly rooted in the substrate, with the leaves located at the stem’s nodes, which explains the name of the plant’s origin. Leaves of this plant come in single, paired and even multiple varieties.

Java Moss or the Java Fern may be classified as one of the most common aquatic plants. This particular plant is very nice for those who are just starting as aquarium hobbyists, mainly because it is a sturdy plant that can survive at varied pH levels of water.

Water Wisteria is a plant that is much like the Java Fern due to that fact that it can grow quickly, just like how a Java Fern does. Aside from its growth capabilities, it also keeps the algae levels in your aquarium low. Just a warning, though: this plant can also potentially use up the nutrients that are present in the water.

For the experienced hobbyist though, you may want to consider some relatively challenging plants for you to take care of. Cryptocoryne beckettii is an amphibious plant, which means it can grow well on either above land or under water. It is a marvelous plant, because it can give off an array of brilliant colors if you can raise the plant well.

As stated earlier, plants are a common addition to an aquarium. It helps give your tank that appealing, natural look, and does not only benefit you with the “nature’s wonder” look, but also benefits the fish as well. Raising these freshwater aquarium plants can be a very enjoying experience for the aquarium enthusiast.